Skin Anarchy

Inside CEW Innovators Awards 2025

56 min
Mar 26, 20262 months ago
Listen to Episode
Summary

This episode spotlights CEW's inaugural 2025 Innovator Awards, which recognize 31 women scientists and innovators across R&D, formulation, sustainability, emerging innovation, and packaging. The episode explores how these awards address a critical gap in celebrating the women behind beauty innovation, featuring interviews with CEW leadership and award recipients discussing the future of science-driven beauty.

Insights
  • Women scientists in beauty have historically been invisible despite driving major innovations; recognition programs directly impact career advancement and industry visibility
  • True innovation requires deep biological understanding and rigorous science, not just trend-chasing or novelty—signaling pathways and cellular mechanisms are the foundation of next-generation skincare
  • Consumer demand for ingredient efficacy and scientific transparency is rising, creating market pressure for brands to educate rather than market, shifting the industry toward science-first positioning
  • Biotech acquisition and peptide technologies represent the next evolution in hair care and skincare, moving beyond single-mechanism solutions to multi-targeted, 360-degree approaches
  • Mentorship and visible representation of women scientists directly influences pipeline development; Gen Z and Gen Alpha are more engaged with science careers when they see female role models in industry
Trends
Rise of 'taboo topic' innovation: menopause, hair loss, excessive sweating, and keratosis pilaris moving from medical-only to mainstream beauty solutionsSignaling-era skincare: shift from structural/ingredient focus to understanding cellular communication, senescence, and neurocutaneous biology as drivers of visible agingBiotech integration in beauty: acquisition of biotech companies (e.g., Olaplex acquiring Purvala from MIT) bringing peptide and advanced molecular technologies to cosmeticsConsumer-driven scientific literacy: AI, ChatGPT, and social platforms enabling consumers to research ingredients and mechanisms, demanding transparency from brandsWomen-led R&D as competitive advantage: brands recognizing that female scientists drive innovation in consumer-centric categories and bring different problem-solving approachesTreatment category expansion in hair care: peptides and proprietary technologies moving from skincare into hair fiber repair and reshaping, not just growthExosome and vesicle technology emerging: understanding cargo inside exosomes and plant-derived alternatives as next frontier in delivery and efficacySustainability as innovation metric: clean chemistry, planet-safe formulations, and reduced harsh chemicals becoming baseline expectation alongside efficacyIncubator model for awards: recognition programs (Innovators) serving as pipeline to leadership roles (Achievers), accelerating women's advancement in STEM-adjacent industriesNeurocutaneous biology focus: skin sensation, neuromodulation, and cutaneous signaling becoming central to anti-aging and treatment innovation
Topics
CEW Innovator Awards 2025Women in STEM and beauty scienceCellular senescence and agingNeurocutaneous biology and skin signalingPeptide technology in hair careDisulfide bond repair and hair damageBiotech integration in cosmeticsExosome technology and delivery systemsConsumer demand for scientific transparencyFormulation science and innovation metricsSustainability in beauty R&DMentorship and career advancement for women scientistsAI and machine learning in cosmetic developmentTaboo topics in beauty innovationBond-building and hair reshaping technology
Companies
CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women)
Host organization of the 2025 Innovator Awards recognizing 31 women scientists across five innovation categories
NYSEC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists)
Partner organization that helped identify innovator categories and evaluate submissions for CEW awards
Olaplex
Hair care brand featuring Dr. LaVina Pepescu as Chief Scientist; discussed bond-building technology and biotech acqui...
Purvala
MIT-born biotech company acquired by Olaplex to advance peptide technologies for hair care innovation
La Mer
Luxury skincare brand where Dr. Jamie Emmitsberger leads Max Huber Research Labs on neurocutaneous biology
Estée Lauder
Parent company where Dr. LaVina Pepescu worked in R&D before joining Olaplex
Six Science
Biotech skincare brand founded by two Turkish doctors; recognized as innovator for advanced technology
SDL of our companies
Organization where Dr. Jamie Emmitsberger serves as Director of Advanced Technologies
People
Ilana Drill-Cipher
Discussed CEW's mission to advance women in beauty and the creation of the Innovator Awards
Andrea Najal
Explained the gap in industry recognition that led to Innovator Awards and evaluation process for 150+ submissions
Dr. Jamie Emmitsberger
2025 Innovator Award recipient; molecular neuroscientist discussing cellular senescence, neurocutaneous biology, and ...
Dr. LaVina Pepescu
2025 Innovator Award recipient; discussed bond-building technology, peptide innovations, and women in STEM careers
Quotes
"These awards are incredibly meaningful because they are really celebrating the women that are behind the scenes and making beauty happen on every level. These are the scientists, the architects of what we consider to be true beauty innovation."
HostOpening
"There was a huge gap in the industry. We are the first to do it. And they held our hands the entire way, really from submissions, from helping to identify what the different categories were."
Andrea NajalMid-episode
"Innovation comes down to a deep biological understanding. When it comes to skin, how do we approach affecting the skin in a beneficial way? But we won't have this type of understanding without understanding the intricacies of these biological pathways."
Dr. Jamie EmmitsbergerMid-episode
"The consumer are looking to see the benefits. If you can deliver the right products with the right benefits for the consumers, of course, they will trust the brand. The second one that it's in my opinion, it's extremely important is the safety."
Dr. LaVina PepescuLate episode
"Science is amazing, not only in cosmetics in general. I feel science is a fantastic area, but especially in cosmetics industry, we need more girls, more women."
Dr. LaVina PepescuClosing
Full Transcript
Hey guys, welcome to a very special episode of Skin Anarchy. In this episode, we're going to be spotlighting the CEW 2025 Innovator Awards. These awards are incredibly meaningful because they are really celebrating the women that are behind the scenes and making beauty happen on every level. These are the scientists, the architects of what we consider to be true beauty innovation. So I cannot wait to dive in and to begin the episode, please welcome back the president of CEW, Ilana Drill-Cipher, and with her today is Andrea Najal, who is a seasoned beauty industry content executive and currently serving as chief content officer at CEW. Welcome Ilana and I'm so excited to dive into these awards and understand them because it is such an important celebration and I can't wait to learn more about it. Andrea, I would love to start and ask you a question because I really want our listeners to grasp the true meaning and the relevance of the Innovator Award. So we'll start at the beginning. What was the gap in the industry that led to the creation of these awards? So it's so nice to see you and to speak to you. So thank you for having me. I think even before talking about the awards, we should take a step back and really talk about CEW's relationship with NYSEC, who was so instrumental in the awards really coming together. For more than a decade, CEW has partnered with NYSEC really around the beauty awards and a specific award called the Ingredients and Formulation Award. So it's an honor that really recognizes true innovation in formulation science. So year after year, this category stands among the most highly submitted in the entire Beauty Awards program alongside Facial Moisturizer and Indie Brand. It was a real testament to the passion and ingenuity of the scientific community. So we kind of knew that something was bubbling up. There were getting so many submissions for this specific award. And then in early 2025, CEW and NYSEC, we saw an opportunity to really take that commitment even further. And they told us, we are very familiar with your awards platforms, where you're honoring women in a C-suite for Achiever Awards and you're honoring female founders with your Visionary Awards. There's really an opportunity for women in the science of beauty to be recognized. And we said, oh, that is amazing. So ultimately, we created this award, Innovators Awards, and we partnered with NYSEC to really identify what does that mean. So yes, there was a huge gap in the industry. We are the first to do it. And they held our hands the entire way, really from submissions, from helping to identify what the different categories were. And that's how we were able to really select and fine tune who would ultimately be an innovator. So ultimately, we honored 31 women in five different categories. So across R&D and product development, formulation, sustainability, emerging innovators and packaging. And we really honored them by putting them in a report talking about their career journeys. And then we celebrated them at a cocktail party, complete with keynote speakers, the lipstick lesbians who are innovators themselves. That's wonderful. Now, it's so interesting because, and Alana, I want to kind of get your take on this because innovation is now such an important topic. And it's such, I think it always has been, right? But now to see it come front and center is very inspiring, especially I think for a lot of women in medicine, women in science, especially, I mean, what is your take on that in terms of innovation being the focus rather than just the broader beauty category? Yeah, I mean, I can tell you because it was, I attended the awards and it was before I officially joined CW. And I think what struck me was that this is an industry that's based a lot on newness and on how it's marketed and what the package looks like, et cetera. But we never pull back the curtain on how the product actually gets made. And yet interestingly, consumers love that, right? Like they love to see like on the line, like people love when brands kind of post like, here's the lipstick getting filled or this is what it looks like on the line or whatever. And I think really what Andrea and CW did was it re-focused people's attention on the fact that there are individuals at every step of the process and that not only are women the end consumer, but there's this group of women, obviously men also, but we put the spotlight on women of who are behind the scenes, right? Either doing the research, creating the ingredients, formulating the product, working on the product package fit, et cetera. And what I saw was in that room were a lot of women who felt like they were the intel inside, but they were the best kept secret out there, right? And so they were just so thrilled to kind of have this spotlight on them to say a thank you for doing this, but be, yes, like I raised my hand. I worked on the bench in this big company for 30 years and now I started my own ingredient manufacturer, my own lab or my own whatever. And there was just an enormous amount of pride. And I would also say camaraderie among those people because they kind of looked at each other and they understood each other, right? Like they were like, we are part of this community. I feel like what happened was they came together like a cohort and they sort of wanted to create this sub community of innovators and creators. Yeah, that's really fascinating because I like what you said. I think these awards really for me stand out so much because the recognition that's needed, I mean, you can spend your whole life, right? Like trying to create something magical and do it behind the bench, but then to not have anyone even know that you were behind that. That's hard for any scientist, for any innovator. And so this is huge that you guys have introduced these awards. Andrea, I want to go back to you and ask you about the actual evaluation process for the awards. It's pretty difficult, right? To kind of understand like what are the two factors that are stand out in any kind of innovation rather than something that's trend driven novelty. So can you give us a little bit of insight into that evaluation process for the awards? So we received more than 100, 150 submissions and they were entered by category, not only by the innovators themselves, but also by their peers. So their peers called out, hey, you should know about this fantastic product development person or this amazing R&D person or an up and comer. And so a lot of them who were ultimately chosen didn't know that they were even in the running. So then we took all of these submissions who were then by category and we all met in a room and we had our NYSEC partners help us. And we really just took a long time to look at the companies they were from researching what are some of the ingredients that are trending and that are really making headway in the market right now. What are the products that these ingredients are being seen in right now? It was easier than you alluded to in that these women and the ingredients that they are behind and the brands that they're behind are the raw stars of what's going on in beauty right now. And I feel like we really hit the nail on the head at the right time. As you've seen in the market on TikTok, on social media, scientists and people who are on the bench are getting the spotlight. So we were kind of in tune and writing that wave of, all right, let's identify these women based on these very defined categories of emerging innovator and formulation and cosmetic chemistry on and on. And they really just kind of rose to the top. It was a natural process. And Efti, I want to say we had an experience where one of the innovators, I think just to take a step back, I think this group of people is so used to not being credited and not having attention put on them, that somebody, one of their innovators won the award, came alone, accepted it, and her company didn't know until afterwards. And the company was sort of like, had we known we would have been there to support you or whatever, but these innovators are so used to kind of being anonymous that they didn't even sort of like put it out there that this was happening. And I like what you said about being a scientist and kind of being used to being behind the scenes. Like if you think about it, we put a brand name on the front of a product. We put all the ingredients on the back, right? We never say formulated by, right? And often it's a group of people, right? I'm not saying it's one. Like we all know having worked in this industry a really long time, like even on a small brand, there are probably 100 people between the packaging people, the project managers, the contract manufacturers, the ingredient. There are probably 100 people involved in the launch of a product. But I think for me what struck me about the whole thing was the anonymity of the innovator themselves was completely blown up with the awards in a great way, right? Like it was really a reveal. Yeah. Just to piggyback on that, when we were creating the report and as we were reaching out to the innovators, my inbox was filled with messages saying, I cannot believe that I'm being recognized. They were so humbled and proud and probably even a little overwhelmed with this recognition. And I think it just kind of reinforced how we were really tapping into a white space. Yeah, absolutely. I mean, this is like so huge. And I think that this is where I, for me, I think CEW really stands out because of reasons like this, because you guys are able to identify areas that I think the industry often overlooks. I've seen this time and time again. And I think that it's very much represented in these awards and the heart of it when I'm looking at it, right? And I would love for you guys to speak on this. This idea of finding the areas in beauty that are just maybe becoming the exception of what should be recognized, what should we shine a spotlight on? What are some of those things outside of even just the innovator awards that really fueled these awards when you were thinking about creating them? Well, I'll let Andrea talk about things she thought about when creating the awards. I can take what I think are the areas for the future. Yeah. If you look at the statistics around women's leadership in beauty and in fashion, right? The numbers for women at the top in the CEO roles are actually not getting better. They're getting worse. And when you peel back the rationale about why, what are the reasons that women are being told that they're not getting those top jobs? There are three specific areas people talk about. One is financial acumen. One is operational expertise. And the third is international experience. And so I think for the future, if you think about how as an organization, if part of our focus is on the advancement and development of women's careers at every stage, I think the women in this industry who are financially oriented, the women who work in operations and the women who have international experience are three different areas of opportunity that we can look at for sure. But now I'll let Andrea answer your question about how did we know this was a place to look? Well, I think we looked to our mission statement and CUW's overall vision, which is to really elevate women in the beauty industry. And this was just an untapped area in the beauty industry. As I said, we recognize manufacturers and retailers in C-suite as well as Indian founder companies. And we do have very good relationships with suppliers and contract manufacturers. So this was just the next obvious step. Makes sense. Yeah, no, I'm really glad you created these. It's very exciting. And we're in, I think we're in a moment right now where innovation is really becoming the baseline expectation, right? For a lot of different categories. I mean, obviously I talk a lot about skincare. I love skincare a lot and I see it all the time in that. But what are your thoughts? I mean, Andrea, I'd love to hear your thoughts on this in terms of where innovation is really taking that center role and apart from just recognizing, like just people recognizing the role of innovation and how that's shaping careers in the space. Well, I think just the role of innovation is probably being fueled also by the consumer who is commanding and demanding ingredients that are working and that are worthy of their time. We deal with lots of data partners who track consumer search and who are seeing and reporting that consumers are searching about ingredients and looking for the most effective solutions more now, more than ever. And that's now even being seen on platforms like chat, GBT and Genesis and so on, where consumers are searching for solutions and in a multitude of ways. So who knows which came first, the chicken or the egg, but innovation has to be there in order for product to move in order for there to be a reason to, to learn something. So that's really what is happening right now. And I think we're just seeing more and more women as there are more women in the back areas of science and in the science of beauty. They are also coming to the forefront. I mean, if you just look at some of the innovators and the brands that we recognized, all of them are women. One of them was Six Science founded by two Turkish doctors and just really amazing technology and innovation. And they're also being supported by people who have been in the industry for years and years at other brands. And I think we're just seeing a lot of support and partnership by everyone to put women forward who are who are innovating and who have the science background. And I think if I, if I take a step back on what I'm about to say is pure conjecture, but it's, it's my, my own personal supposition. We, in our last conversation, we talked a little bit about sort of the history of beauty and like the categories, what people worked on, et cetera. I think one of the things I'm sure you'll agree over the past, let's call it 10 years. What I call the taboo topics, hair loss, zits, menopause, facial hair, excessive sweating, body dryness, keratosis, pilaris, like all of these things that people never talked about have become A, areas that people talk about and B, areas that brands have innovated and created solutions. Right. And so I have to believe that women's involvement in science and in the conversation is part of that. Right. I, I myself worked on projects around in skincare more than 20 years ago that were sort of related to solutions for menopause, but they were developed by men and people weren't ready to have that conversation. I feel like that's a conversation today that people can't get enough of, right? And there's from a product perspective, from a conversation on Reddit perspective, from an influencer perspective, like across the board. And I think that's where innovation is coming from now and sort of all of these taboo and unmet topics, they're kind of coming to the fore, but also with solutions. Right. Right. Now, that's a really good point. And I think that I've had this conversation on the podcast where, like exactly what you said, Alana, where it's like the, the topics and the, the industries that are so closely tied to like the medical side, right? Innovations that are really kind of bridging that gap between like, okay, this was just in medicine before, this was just in big pharma before. We never saw it come over into this space where there's so much accessibility. I mean, that's where I feel like a words like these matter so much because they spotlight how we can bridge that gap and we can really bring over things that are going to genuinely help people at the end of the day. And you're not going to be limited by any kind of blockade. So that's, I mean, it's huge. And I completely agree with everything that you said. On that note, I want to ask though, in terms of the future, Andrea, maybe you could tell us the future of the waiter of words, like what impact do you hope that this program has in the long run for the industry? Because right now, just to give you like my just opinion, I think we're in a time right now in beauty where we're seeing a lot of buzzwords come up. Although the science is there, the data is there. The consumers are still looking at them as like buzzy terms like biotech, all of the words in biotech. Where do you think the waiter of words are going to fit into that, into that narrative of like educating consumers and really getting them on board with the science of everything? I think we're actually working on innovators for 2026 and what that event will look like. I think what we'll do is we will absolutely be looking into the categories that define what an innovator is, seeing how we might be able to expand on that and to include more people in science, more women behind the bench. And I think for the future, I mean, for now we're owning it and we're loving that, really how we can just get more people involved, make sure that everyone and within the scientific community knows about this opportunity for women in science and hopefully to really spur more submissions and to not be shy about that. And I think we should really make a goal to have it so that these women are becoming a little bit more comfortable in the spotlight. Last year, it was a very interesting, it was kind of a phenomenon to have and to see such humility in accepting these awards. I will even say that the reporters who wrote about these women, they found it so refreshing to talk with someone about the science behind the product and not the marketing because typically we're always reporting about marketing innovations and how they're cutting through the noise. So to talk to someone about how something was just a figment of someone's thought and to really talk about formulating that, they found that super refreshing. So I guess we should really be making sure that all of our innovators are really comfortable with the spotlight and are maybe talking about a little bit louder next time. Yeah, that makes sense. I know a lot of people in science can be very shy about accepting recognition. So that makes a lot of sense. Alana, I'd love to get your perspective as well on that and the future of the innovator awards. Yeah, I mean, listen, I think we have a little ways to go until innovators is the size and scale of achievers, right? But that doesn't mean it shouldn't be. And I also think that innovators for us in a way can be an incubator program for a achiever. There have been a few times along the way where we have recognized somebody in R&D as an achiever. And but I do think that having innovator be a place where if one of these individuals organizations has not put enough spotlight on them, if we can do that and that it then propels them and makes them be seen in their companies in a new way and puts them not only in a scientific role, but also in a leadership role to become a head of R&D, to be to be ahead of research in an independent lab, to be somebody who's quoted as a scientific expert across the industry and is working with PCPC or whoever, I think that one of the missions of CW is recognition. And I think the recognition, this for me is the start for a group of people who have been unrecognized. But once the genie's out of the bottle, you can't put them back in, right? For me, it's the beginning of the recognition for what the contributions have been. And I see it only getting bigger, whether that's we recognize them again, because they've achieved more things or just they use this as an opportunity and a platform to elevate themselves in their own visibility and their companies in the industry, etc. So that people begin to know what they're capable of and it opens doors for them so that they can continue to advance. I love that. Well, I'm a huge fan. And for all of our listeners, I hope there's someone in the audience that can apply for next year's awards. Very, very exciting. But thank you so much to both of you for telling us all about the awards and everything. Thanks, sector. Thank you. Please welcome Dr. Jamie Emmitsberger, who is a recipient of the Innovator Awards 2025 by CW. Dr. Emmitsberger serves as the director of advanced technologies at the SDL of our companies, where she is a fellow on the research and innovation team. She's also the lead scientist at La Mer's Max Huber Research Labs. A molecular neuroscientist by training Dr. Emmitsberger's research primarily centers on neurocutaneous biology such as skin sensation, neurocutaneous signaling, cutaneous neuromodulation and the impact of cellular senescence on skin aging. Welcome, Dr. Emmitsberger. Oh, thank you so much for having me today. Yeah. And congratulations again on your CW Innovator Award. I think it's so wonderful that you've been recognized. And I want to take this opportunity to actually ask you about innovation because it's such a important word, especially right now in the beauty industry. I think more than ever. Could you kind of talk to us about what your view is in terms of the real meaning of innovation and why it's so important to recognize in our industry? Yeah. So I think obviously innovation comes down to a deep biological understanding, at least in my role. So if I can just give you just a little bit of background, I'm a trained molecular biologist and neuroscientist. So to me, having innovation is understanding the biology. So when it comes to skin, how do we approach affecting the skin in a beneficial way? But we won't have this type of understanding, right? Without understanding the intricacies of these biological pathways. So how I position this is when we think of innovation, we can also incorporate and explore other possibilities. So like, for example, innovation can incorporate AI, for example, and this can explore additional possibilities like what ingredients, mixtures, makes sense in different skin types. This will allow us for like faster and opportunities with fewer experimentations. But to keep in mind, this will never replace scientific judgment or craftsmanship. It just enhances efficiency, insight and precision. So when we think of innovation, it really is integrating like rigorous science with also craftsmanship when it comes to cosmetics. And it's not only to, we don't want to chase trends, but instead gain a deeper understanding of how biology and nature already works, like what I was mentioning before. So you can translate this exceptional experience with real performance. So to me, discovery matters when it becomes an experience, right? An exceptional performance reflects a brand's value. Yeah. No, that's really powerful. And I completely agree with you. I think that also one of the follow up questions I have is like, what in your view really separates something brand new from innovation? Because I think right now we're in time where things are really coming out very rapidly and there are a lot of new stuff coming out, especially in the beauty space. So where is that line between, okay, this is just a new thing, right? Versus like truly it is going to make an impact in the scientific space. Yeah. And I think there is a balance there. Like you do have things that come out brand new and something that might be an exciting topic. But I think really what drives the innovation, as mentioned before, is understanding the complexity of what that brand new thing is doing. Right. So for example, I presented at MCAS this year, 2026, and we presented on exosome technology. And I think once again, it is an emerging trend in aesthetic field. But what's important is understanding that these are biological messengers. And diving deeper into what's brand new allows us to have a more targeted approach. So what I mean by this is let's give exosomes as an example, right? But these are delivery messengers. But really what matters is the cargo inside exosomes or even other alternatives, like these exosome-like vesicles coming from plants. So if we don't understand the cargo, we're not going to understand the benefit that cargo can basically deliver on. So I think there is this fine line between what's new, what's trending, what's out there. But then understanding the biology behind of what we're truly studying will allow us to position it in the right way for the consumer and to elicit the proper benefit for that consumer. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. And I think that's also something that we see a lot. I mean, I hear about this a lot from our listeners too, where it's like there's this misunderstanding, I think, also around truly advanced biologics and these kind of technologies because there's no... I mean, I think there needs to be this education. Like what you're explaining, there needs to be that level of very transparent education. And yeah, it's very interesting the way you explained it. We often talk about things like collagen and pigmentation and also like cutaneous neuromodulation. How much of visible skin aging is really a story of signaling? Disregulation rather than just structural decline? That's a good question. And I think it also is going to depend on an individual's genetics, right? So it's quite complex and also environmental exposure. So I know based on literature and current publications that we consider majority of aging associated with environmental factors, right? But when you take into account what's contributing to that breakdown, it is associated with signaling molecules. So even, for example, like for UV exposure, right, you might have some breakdown, structural breakdown from light, but mostly what's contributing to structural breakdown is those signaling molecules that are actually attacking the collagen, for example, or if you mentioned before, like pigmentation, right? There's always a signaling component that's going to enhance pigmentation. So I really think that there is this cross-talk in communication. It's not just like, all right, we're going to have degradation of collagen because that just naturally occurs with age. It really is associated with what signaling molecules are present and how they're contributing to that degradation. So they really worked hand in hand with one another. I don't think that there's one defined answer for this. Like I said before, it does take into account the individual's background, right? How much they are exposed to environmental stressors. And in addition to that, right, what is the complexity of that signaling environment, and particularly for me, within skin? Right. That's really interesting. And I also want to dive in because I know you explore through your research cellular senescence and its impact on aging. I think senescence is a very interesting topic because we've heard the word. And again, like this is the industry is, I think, trying to catch up or catch consumers up with these very heavy science concepts. But again, like to understand something like that, I think it takes such a deeper look inside. Love for you to talk more about this topic and really about the role of senescence and true anti-aging. Like what does that really mean? And how should consumers be looking at this topic to understand it and its role? So well, senescence is obviously a natural biological process. And every individual has a senescent cell in them at any given time. So we have to understand that senescence is built, right, in our bodies as a natural fail-safe mechanism. It actually is not such a detrimental thing. The trouble becomes is when you lose with age regulatory mechanisms or components that will help modulate or reduce the amount of senescent cells that we have, let's say within our skin. So what I mean by this is that at any given time, right, a senescent cell can be beneficial because, like I said before, it is a fail-safe mechanism. You don't want, you don't want, let's say, for example, a cell that is damaged to keep on dividing, right? You want to make sure all the healthy cells in that environment are functioning properly. So in this case, the body will say, all right, this senescent cell in particular is damaged, so I'm going to become senescent. I don't want to divide anymore. All right, I don't want to make any more of myself because I'm damaged. And that's great because then what will happen is that our body will over time remove that senescent cell. But with age, like I mentioned before, those regulatory mechanisms of removal decline. So what happens is that these senescent cells end up accumulating within any given system, let's say, for skin. And what they do is they release all of these irritation or inflammatory factors, right, that can communicate with neighboring cells. And really, that, that's the component that can be damaging. It's more about this bystander damage than it is about the senescent cell just being there, right? So what they're doing is they're communicating with their neighbors and that can cause the neighboring cells to become damaged and the neighboring cells to become senescent. So it's really more about this, this communication, like you were mentioning before, these signaling molecules. And those signaling molecules is what is detrimental. And that is what's going to cause the tissue to eventually decline because they're no longer working optimally. And to that point as well, there's a lot of contributing factors that will lead to senescence, like I said, prior, enhance environmental exposure. That's going to cause cells to become damaged, which can trigger senescence, right? And if you don't have this proper communication or this proper, I should say, regulation within any given tissue, then they'll end up accumulating. And the more exposure you have to these environmental stressors will enhance the amount of these senescent cells. So really, even though senescence is considered cellular aging, right? It's when they accumulate where, when it becomes an issue. That's, yeah, that's really fascinating. And again, like it's just this understanding of like truly what senescence is. And I think I had asked this question a long time ago, like in terms of like, it can be even quantify senescence at this point in terms of like, have we figured out all the biomarkers? Have we figured out what that cellular profile really looks like to where we can say, yes, this is a senescent cell? I think, I mean, we're, this is a brand new concept in itself, right? I mean, we're finally coming into this now in the scientific realm. And so I think it's again, this consumer, like, like for consumers to wrap their head around it, it becomes so important for voices like yours to be present in this industry to like really, really teach and just kind of guide us into like a realistic understanding and not buzzwords. And that's what I worry about a lot from my end as well. Like both of the scientists and also consumer is like, are we really understanding or are we just kind of diving into these buzzy topics? Yeah. And I absolutely agree with you. And I think in terms of senescence too, like you were mentioning before, what is the proper signaling pathway or what's going to induce that? So if you have, let's say UV exposure versus pollution versus just natural aging, all of those are going to make a senescent cell a little bit different, right? You're never going to have an identical cell that senescence profile, I should say, from a given cell. And also it depends on the cell type, right? Whether it is a upper layer skin cell, like a keratinocyte or a lower layer skin cell that produces collagen like fibroblasts, that the difference between those cells will actually give different signaling molecules. So it's much more complex than we think it is because they all right, well, we have senescence. Let's just treat it with something. But the biology for each cell type and each condition that induces senescence will be a little bit different. And that's what makes it unique. And that's why we have to understand the deep science behind what, let's say, environmental stressors are truly doing to cells, right? And then what those cells are doing in response to those environmental stressors. And that's how we can end up targeting them better. I couldn't agree with you more. And with that in mind, especially the signaling component, I mean, looking ahead, do you think we're entering into what you might call a signaling era in skin care? I mean, do you think that that's coming next? Because I feel like we've been through this whole biotech introduction, right? And different phases of what people consider to be more scientifically forward skincare. But now is it, I mean, do you think it is finally like a signaling era that we're coming up on? I do think so. I mean, I think that we have been, we've been doing it for a while. We just haven't been very forward with it. Because everything in biology is like mentioned before is based on a signaling component. So whether it's peptides, right? Or, or let's say exosomes, for example, which are these vesicles that carry signals within them. I think all of this is leading to us being more forward about talking about signaling. But I think that we've been doing it for decades. I just think that we're still learning more deeply as new technologies come out, right? And new instruments come out. It allows us to explore the science more deeply. So as the industry progresses from a scientific standpoint, meaning new methods, right? New advancements in, in microscopy or new advancement in certain types of instrumentation, our science is also going to excel. So now we're learning how complex this communicate, the skin communication is. And that once again, will help us have a better targeted approaches on how we're designing our formulas. That makes sense. And I love that you said that we've always kind of been here. And I love that you said that because I think that's where many times as consumers, we can get so lost in this idea of like, oh, this is brand new. When in reality, yeah, cell signaling is, is queen when it comes to anything. And if we don't understand cell, cell signaling and molecular biology, it becomes very difficult to kind of wrap our heads around like the latest innovations and the latest true advancements. When it comes to skin health sciences. So I really, really appreciate your, your viewpoint on all this. But thank you so much again. This was wonderful and congratulations on your innovator award. Thank you very much. So now we're welcoming Dr. LaVina Pepescu, who is in charge of all the R&D at Olaplex. She's the chief scientist there and chief researcher. And, and I'm so excited to welcome her and congratulate her on the later awards that CW granted. Welcome, LaVina. I'm so excited to talk to you. Same. Thank you so much for this invitation. I'm excited to dive in because I think innovation is really leading the way right now in beauty, especially in hair care. And I'd love for you to kind of tell us a little bit about where, what you see is truly in a, like true innovation in the hair care space. I mean, what are some of the things that you've seen in the last few years that have been like, wow, this is a huge shift for the hair care industry. Well, definitely recently, especially the last couple of years, we noticed that treatment in hair care category plays a much more role and bigger role than did in the past. Treatment usually is coming from skincare, but honestly, with the amount of the peptide and proprietary technologies that we notice in the industry, I feel hair care is the next big trend in the treatment category. Not only, again, not only for hair follicle, for hair growth, but I'm talking more about the hair fibers, like classical shampoo conditioner or treatments for the hair fiber. This, in my opinion, I see a big shift. And like I said, big innovations. I mean, that's huge. And I think Olaplex is so unique because when the bond building technology was introduced, I think it really changed the way that we think about hair, right? And the way we approach it. And I think that's, I mean, Olaplex has been such a hallmark brand in so many ways in terms of even shifting the culture around how consumers interact with the science of hair. And so look for your thoughts on that in terms of being an innovator. How do you manage that kind of bringing the science to the consumer without overwhelming them, but showing them that this is really going to improve your day to day? Yeah. Well, to be honest, I was not part of Olaplex 12 years ago. Yeah. When this technology came out. And I have to be very honest, that time I was part of Estelotter. And I remember I was looking in their technology in Olaplex technology, because in reality, to be able to repair the cortex of the hair, that was a holy grave for us. And like I said, 12 years ago, the owner, the ex-owner of Olaplex, Dean Crystal joined the force with a very amazing scientist from California. And they actually, they realize the existing proprietary molecule, which is the bissamino, this is how we call not very scientific, is the one that actually can reform the disulfide bonds. Because we know that the disulfide bonds are the most important bonds that we need to reform when the hair is damaged, different type of damage. Damages, especially chemical damages, because this is the hardest damage that we need to take care of. Now, like I said, other technologies, this happened 12 years ago, right? But other technologies evolved in meantime. And like I said before, the peptide category is the one that in my opinion, it's huge and can really change this industry. But in reality, our technology in this moment still is number one technology in reforming disulfide bonds. Probably you are aware that Olaplex acquire a biotech company, Purvala, born with MIT laboratories, with MIT scientists. And by acquiring this biotech company, we actually acquired a couple of proprietary technologies still in the peptide categories. That actually, I can say it's more innovative in terms of benefits. It's more advanced. Instead of building one disulfide bonds, now with one of the technology, we can build six disulfide bonds in the same time. And it's in the peptide category and it's a 360 round, which is, like I said, this 3D, which actually will help not only to repair the hair, but also to reshape the hair, which is the next generation in our industry. We have other technologies that we are working, proprietary technologies that we are working in this moment. But I feel this technology, especially this technology that I'm talking about, we call Bonds Shaper technology, it's one that really can put the hair care industry in the next level. That's really fascinating to hear because that's my main question, right? Innovation is such a broad term. But then when you think about it, I mean, where like this science component, you and I can sit here for hours and you can explain all of this to me. And I will love it because I enjoy science. But I think for the everyday consumer, bringing this science forward, what are some of the hurdles that you think that Olaplex faces from the R&D side or any brand, right? I mean, any brand, I guess you could say, in terms of showing consumers that we are entering a new era, especially with biotech. Like this is a new space that we're entering in the beauty industry. And what are your thoughts on that? Well, in reality, the consumer are looking to see the benefits. Yeah. If you can deliver the right products with the right benefits for the consumers. Of course, they will trust the brand. And I feel this is this is the first thing that any brand can do it, can really deliver what they are saying to do it. The second one that it's in my opinion, it's extremely important is the safety. And I can say that at Olaplex, we have specific standards for safety. I think, and I don't want to be exclusive, but probably we want one of the highest in the safety testing. And I think for the consumer matter, because they want to be sure when they use a product, the product is safe. Even if they use multiple times or one time, the product is safe. And also what is important is important in the cleaning category, right? Like we want to work in saving the planet. We want to be in the area that we don't use harsh chemicals and not they are safe only for the consumers, but also for the planet. If we will be able to deliver everything that I'm saying and with the right benefits, I think the consumer will listen to the science. And it's a very interesting shift even in the consumers mentality. And probably because more and more they are exposed to science. We have a lot of questions about the mechanism. How exactly this product is working? Even when we do like one to one classes with a hairstylist or directly with the consumers, we have meetings with them. They always are extremely curious and they love to understand science behind the product. Just great. Yeah. No, I mean, there's a big shift right now. I think the consumer, like everybody's asking questions, everybody. And that's why I feel like this award is so it's just so important when I spoke to Alana and Andrea about the real significance of CEW's innovator awards. I was blown away by their responses as well, because right now I think it's so important to highlight the scientists, especially the women in STEM that are behind these innovations, because I think that really speaks to how people can kind of feel like they can relate to that, right? Like me as a consumer myself. Like, I mean, I'm in science, but if I wasn't in science, if I knew there was a female scientist, you know, such as you and you were behind the scenes and you were creating this, I would feel better as a consumer knowing that. And so I would love to get your take on and your opinion on this idea of like congratulating and awarding the scientists and bringing the scientists to the forefront when it comes to the identity of brands and letting consumers see them and say, oh, OK, this person is behind the brilliant idea that changed the game. So what are your thoughts on that? I completely agree with you. And I have to give you my personal experience in this area. Before I came to the United States, I'm from Romania. I was assistant professor to Quantum Chemistry Department in Bucharest. And I was one of the few women in that department. To be very honest, it's not like I felt a little bit different, but I felt that it's hard sometimes to to fit in that scientific word probably because I was young. I didn't know exactly what's going on. But I felt a little bit being we basically were only two two women in that department was a little bit hard to. Yeah, when I came in the United States and I joined Cosmetics Industry, I felt much better because in R&D, at least as the loader, we had a lot of women that work in the scientific part. And I felt so good. And even now, I remember when when I realized that first of all, I'm a woman that I fit in this area. I have partner that I discuss with. And I think even the communication, the connection between us was so different, especially in Cosmetics Industry, which like I said, many, many years ago was very much into the woman category. We express ourselves much better. Yeah, we communicate. We we connect it very easy to say. And I feel I agree with you. I mean, even now, when like I said, I am going to PR events and I met the hairstylist, the ambassadors, they are fascinated to understand who is behind, who is the scientist or who are the scientists behind the products. We have a lot of people that are coming in the lab. We have special tours for especially for the hairstylist, even for some influencers, but they are fascinated to to meet people behind the products. Yeah, I mean, I can I can imagine because I think for us, like in those who are in science, I think it's very early in your in your career, it's ingrained in you to be curious about who knows what, you know what I mean, and seek knowledge. And now now I feel like that culture, that true spirit of science is now seeping into the consumer mindset. And I love seeing that because now it's like, I want to know, I want to know the mind that came up with this. And that is where I think these kind of awards are so critical at this stage in the beauty industry. And I mean, because it's this is what's going to change how consumers demand more from brands. It's like you don't just want products anymore as a consumer. You want an experience. You want to feel like you're part of something. And I just love I love that this exists. And I love that women like you are here and you're showing up in a way where the consumers can see this person did this. You know, she did this came from her mind. So I mean, they put a face behind the product, which yeah, matters so much for them. 100%. Yeah, it's not created in a special laboratory, AI or something. They feel humans. It's a human connection, I think. Yeah. Well, also with a brand like Oloplex or any hair brand, right? Who are the main consumers? And this is across the board in beauty, right? It's women. Women are. Exactly. If we don't represent women, then what are we doing? That's the that's the fundamental. That's why I love that C.E.W. made these awards. I really do because I think it's a benchmark. And I mean, I would love to get your advice, though, because there are a lot of, I think, young women right now that obviously you see them. I mean, they're going into STEM, but it's a different it's a different place now, I think STEM than it was maybe 20 years ago. And, you know, what's your advice to the budding scientists, to the to the young woman who wants to go into science about career, about expectations, anything, any words of wisdom you can offer? This is actually a very good question. And I have two girls, two daughters. And it's funny because especially my oldest one, she's in the science already. And I really encourage from the beginning to be in science because she had a very scientific mind. But now with the AI and everything was going on. A lot. I have a lot of questions regarding the new generations, Gen Z, Gen Alpha. If science is still safe, because first, this is the first question that they always ask me. And I have to say science, it's safe, it's not only safe, but especially when you work in the lab. Yeah, I feel you cannot replace this so easy. Second, talking about girls in science, I feel us women, especially in cosmetics industry, because we use the product, we know how to, we know what we are looking for. We know what is missing. I think they have such a big potential and definitely they can create and they can come up with so many innovative ideas that I'm 100% for girls, women in science, especially in cosmetics industry in R&D. And surprisingly, or not surprisingly, in the R&D, in Dolaplex R&D, we have very young women that they are doing amazing. And yes, of course, we have men in the lab, but the majority of the scientists are women. Yeah. And they are young and they are extremely creative. They love the job. And like I said, we love cosmetics. This is part of our DNA, right? Look now, especially Gen Alpha, they start probably when they are five years old to understand exactly what the products are. It means it's in our DNA, we want to look pretty, beautiful, young, attractive. And when you have this in your mind, you understand better. Yeah. What are our products we should develop in order for us to look beautiful or to look the way you want to look? And again, I feel we need to encourage the woman to be in science. Science is amazing, not only in cosmetics in general. I feel science is a fantastic area, but especially in cosmetics industry, we need more girls, more women. I agree. I agree 100% with you. And those are wonderful words. And I love that you have daughters and that you are able to share with them because I sometimes I look out and I see so many. Look, for me, I remember when I went to science, I didn't have a mentor and I see that a lot these days. There's very few mentors that are, you know, it's hard. It's hard mentoring people, but I think girls don't get those opportunities as readily until they seek them out. So I think even from that mindset, it's so important to have women and beauty, especially like pioneers and visionary such as yourself, to be forward in the media and to see you because they're going to be exposed to that immediately. You know, like if you're buying a product, if a woman scientist was behind creating that, you as a little girl, I'm sure something happens in your brain when you start thinking, because they're not they're in college yet. You know what I mean? So they haven't seen the female professors. So that's their first exposure to a female scientist. That's 100%. And like I said, I know girls who actually very young, they do their own product. A couple of young influencers, they they create their own master. They act like a scientist. Imagine what they will be in the lab, how much innovation they can bring because they their mind, they know how to build this type of products. Like to work in this industry. It's beautiful. It's beautiful. Well, thank you so much for your time. I have really, really enjoyed this and congratulations again on the award. It's so well deserved. Thank you. Thank you. And thank you again for for everything. Like really appreciate having a little bit time to listen to my ideas and to promote the fact that women are so important. And I really want them to be more in science than any anywhere else. Thank you guys so much for tuning into this episode. I have really loved learning about the CW Innovator Awards. I think these awards are incredibly just needed in this space because they are talking about a topic that I think just has never been touched before. You know, for so long, women in science have been silently working away in the background, bringing the most advanced technologies to the forefront. And very rarely do we see them celebrated in this capacity. And so I really urge all of you, go check out CW if you have not already, follow along with all of their content and leave us your thoughts below. I would love to learn from you what you think about, you know, celebrating women in this way and what you think about the awards. And, you know, just keep tuning in, guys. Thanks so much.