Musambwa Island

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Download from your app store today. Hubba hubba. Some of my extended family, they're amateur genealogists and I am thankful for them. Grateful, they have done the work tracing our lineage. Sometimes they sent charts and pictures in the mail detailing where we came from. Where my grandmother was born, who her mother was, her father, her father's father, even uncovering long lost pictures. Fuzzy, defiant black and white photos with proud people grinning back out at the descendants at us. People barely one foot out of slavery. People from this photo, decked in the Sunday finest, have cost a full week's wages of labor under the hot sun, but they insisted on taking this picture anyway. That's how important it was, that we know, and stare back at them and see my chin, my eyes, my nose there. My grandmother, here my great great grandfather and one single picture of my great great great grandfather. And then, nothing, everything, everyone lost a time. Buried under the middle passage where we have tried to connect the dots to no avail. I want to know their stories, I do. I assume they loved, they lost, they had both joy and pain. We certainly looked the same. I'm guessing they were just like me only in very different circumstances. I learned very recently that other people, they don't make this assumption. In fact, they know with absolute certainty that their ancestors are something altogether different. Spook stars, now. Now, humans, we like to think we can contain, decide, control things. Even in relationships with who and what, what we're for. The ancestors, and today for a special episode, we're taking you all the way to Uganda. The producer, Lulu Jemima, brings us a story that demonstrates who is really in charge. In charge. Spook. Spook. I'm a gang member, I'm from Enoca. I'm from Emioka, I'm from Mwena. Meet Enoch, he's a 44-year-old fisherman. We first met at a bar in the village of Malembo, on the shores of Lake Victoria. On the table was a plate of two large deep-fried fish. He insisted that I eat both during our interview. I grew up in a village called Namulugwe. As a kid, we didn't eat much fish. Most of our meals were from our garden, like beans and greens. My dad was a coffee farmer, and he could only buy fish once a month during the havers season. So whenever my mom cooked fish, all my siblings and I gathered around her and she would order us around. I would go and get some water, and I would go and get some vegetables, and I would go and get some vegetables. That's when my brother asked me, do you want to work for me on my fishing boat? I thought about it, if I became a fisherman, I could eat all the fish I want. So that's what I did. Lake Victoria is deep, and the waves can get big. It's a kind of water for easy fishing, especially if, like a nook, you can't swim. When we go fishing, we usually set sail at 6pm in the evening. We packed our food, we put tea in plastic bottles and wrapped them in blankets. Then 3-4 of us would take tans rowing. During the coldest nights, we lay grass on the floor of the boat for extra warmth. Once we get to the fishing spot, we drop our nets in the water. Then we eat some food and fall asleep while one person keeps watch. In the middle of the night, we wake up so we can pull the nets back in with all the fish. Then we row back and return to the mainland between 5 and 8am. When Eno gets home, he's called wet and tired, but... One of the best things about being a fisherman is that you always have the fast pick of the fish. Sometimes you catch enough to share with your friends. Then you sell the leftovers. Also, I was introduced to all types of fish which I'd never tested, like... Okugesa, a mamba. The mamba, the African lung fish. I remember the first time I saw the mamba. It was long with soft scales. It looked like a snake. At first, I was scared to try it. But it was tasty. I loved fishing because it wasn't your typical job. When you return in the morning, you cook, you wash your nets. Then you can just sit around and hang out. I loved it, especially at midday when the sun was brightest. But of course, the excitement was off. Not only was catching fish not always guaranteed, it was hard work. My brother's boat had no engine and it took a lot of energy to row to the best fishing spots on Lake Victoria. Many nights, we paddled relentlessly to row against the wind. A boat with an engine only needs one fisherman to navigate. But my brother's boat needed three to four of us to stay on course. Then one day, my brother tells me that he's giving up fishing for good. It was too exhausting. He was impatient because he wasn't making enough money. He was going to go back to being a taxi driver. You know, I left home to fish. I didn't qualify for other jobs and plus, I had a girlfriend waiting for me back in my hometown. When I left the village, I hoped to come back a different man. I had to return at least with new shoes and clothes. So I begged my brother to leave me his boat and he says, Okay, I just have to pay him a cut of any fish I catch. After Enoch's brother went home, Enoch made a new fishing friend. And then one day, this friend tells Enoch about this really, really good fishing spot. The place is called Musambua Island. This island is pretty close, only 45 minutes from the mainland. We wouldn't have to struggle as much with our engineless boat. Here, you can fish without having to row very far. I was intrigued. Musambua is a small island on Lake Victoria. Only five acres wide and three miles from the mainland. About a hundred fishermen live and work on this island. Enoch's friend was right. The fishing there was great. But there was just one catch. Well, more than one. The first thing I heard about the island is that everyone leaves and sleeps outside. There are no homes. Some build little sharks out of sticks and plastic sheets. But everyone sleeps on the ground. I wasn't sure if I could handle that. Then my friend tells me, Women aren't allowed on Musambua Island. My friend tells me that many, many years ago, there was a man who brought his wife to visit him on the island. They made love and that made the spirit of the island mad with envy. Out of nowhere, it became very, very, very windy. But only where the husband and the wife stood. The air everywhere else was still. Then the wind blew and lifted the boat into the air and smashed it against the rocks. Right where the man used to dry his fish. From that day on, no woman was ever allowed to visit the island. Ensuring that the spirit would never get angry again. Look, I don't know about you. I like keeping my money where I can see it. Unfortunately, traditional big wireless carriers like to be my money as well. 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The pan is king of noodling. Whether it's pad thai, yakisoba or laxer, finding that perfect texture is a bottomless noodle rabbit hole. But all I have to do is stir it in the pan for six minutes, right? Bingo! Try the new Charlie Bigums Asian Pan-Fry Noodle Range, handmade in my kitchen. Pan-fried in yours. So I did not really care that women were not allowed, because I already had a girlfriend, who I thought about all the time. Still, I wondered. You have it, I don't hear you ta'vira, because. Why would I want to be anywhere with no women around? I also wondered the same thing. But, Enoch hadn't had the worst yet. I heard that this island is crawling with snakes. At least a thousand snakes. Also, it's not just any snake. The only thing that is left is the forest cobra. This island is filled with forest cobras. Forest cobras grow up to six or seven feet long, some even longer. Musambua is where these venomous forest cobras come to breed. In fact, it's the biggest cobra breeding colony in Africa. No beds, no women. Enoch was actually okay with this. But the snakes, that was the deal breaker. When I was a kid, there was nothing I was afraid of more than snakes. My dad's coffee farm was full of them. All I had to do was hear someone say, there's a snake! And I'd run for the hills. Sometimes we pretended to be brave, like kids do. If we knew there was a snake around, we grabbed sticks and stones and said, I'm trying to go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go. Where is the snake? Where is the snake? There! There it is! Once we found it, we'd start chasing it. But we were too scared to actually get anywhere near it. Despite Enoch's fear of snakes, his friend was like, don't worry, these snakes are different. The word Musambua means spirit. The people here believe that these spirits protect the island, so they don't fear the snakes. When they see a snake, it's a blessing. It means they'll catch lots of fish, so no one is allowed to harm the snakes on the island. Ever. Now, I am a bit confused. Now, I am a born-again Christian. In my church, they told us that snakes are evil. When we pray, we cast snakes as evil spirits. So I never imagined I would ever set foot on an island full of snakes. But my friend told me that there was so much fish at Musambua. When he said that, it made me happy because I loved money. I needed money, so I decided I'm just going to deal with the snakes. In the morning, I see that we are approaching Musambua. You hear the birds singing, you hear the waves crashing on the rocks. What a sound! I am so nervous. When our boat pulls up to the shore, the fishermen who are on the island gather around us. Then they ask us if we have any fish to eat. We do not. So, there is this old tradition among fishermen that you never eat alone. Everybody brings his fish, you chop cassava, all the fish in the same pan, and you eat together. This meal is called Ichibero. So I sat down with a group, but I can't help but look around. My eyes are darting left and right. Then one of the men notices distances. Don't worry, you'll see the spirit of the island before you leave. What? As we are sitting there eating, one of the other men suddenly shouts, Ah, yadja, oh, yo. Ah, this yadja. In Uganda, yadja can also mean grandparent or elder. Then I turn around, expecting to see an old man that they are calling yadja. But instead, I turn to see my friend pointing at this snake. The snake is so big. It's black and white, about four meters long and as thick as my forearm. It is slowly slithering towards us, closer and closer. It's only about three feet from where we are sitting. I know a snake bite is fatal unless someone ties a cloth around you and rushes you to hospital. I wonder how I would leave the island. As I am looking around, I notice that the other guys aren't scared of the snake. They are not scared of the snake. They are startled, they have no fear. They are just sitting there all relaxed, eating. But me? I lift my legs in the air, my body is shaking. I cannot eat, I want to vomit. So I start praying, just keeping my eyes on the snake. Then slowly, I see a snake passing by. The snake passes right by where we were sitting. Then it goes to a nearby tree. By this tree, there is a nest of ducklings. Suddenly, the snake just snatches one of the ducklings into its mouth. The man who owns the duck's shots at the snake. I see a snake passing by, yadja is a snake. Another person says, ah, yadja has taken her reward. The snake just swallows the duckling and leaves. My appetite is gone. Enok and his friend immediately jump back into their boat and rode back to the mainland. He was done. Yet still, he felt like Musambua Island was calling him back. I was getting desperate. I needed money. But some nights, it was just too windy. Our boat had no engine, so it was hard to road to where there was fish. So I decided, I'm going to go back to Musambua. At least, there is fish there. I'll spend a week at most, catch all the fish I could, then leave. We arrive at Musambua Island in the evening. As soon as we put our net in the water and pull it out, we can see all the fish eyes. That first night, we caught about 150 fish. You know, fishing is all about luck. I'm not sure if I can catch any fish, but I can catch many fish. One day, you can catch ten fish. Another day, you can catch eight. Sometimes, you catch 100. Even with all that good luck, Enok refused to spend a night on the island. Instead, Enok and his friends slept on the boat for two more nights before returning to the mainland. In the morning, we sell all the fish. Then we rest. Then my friend leaves to visit his family, and I pay my brother for using his boat. I was now a boss. Enok was hooked. Having all this money for the first time in his life made him forget about the snakes. He decided, why not? I'll sleep over. The first time I spend the night on the island, I stay in a shack with three other guys. That evening, we gather grass and lay it on the ground. Then we put plastic bags on top to make it like a bed. We start winding down by listening to the radio. At 10pm, the guy who owns the radio turns it off. All you can hear is the waves crashing on the rocks, the engines of the boats on the water. But snakes, they don't make any sound. Everyone falls asleep, but I am wide awake holding my little flashlight, shining it all around the shack. I am so terrified. You know, snakes like to hang out in warm places, like our shack. There is no place where they can't reach. They can get to the roof or crawl into your bed. That made me even more scared. I literally can't think about anything else. I try to come myself by watching the other men sleep peacefully. But the longer I watch them, the more I panic. I wonder, which one of us will be the first to run out of the shack? The other men are older and stronger than me. They can easily push me aside and leave me alone with the snake. If I die here, no one will find me. But sleep finally took me away. When I wake up, I am still holding the flashlight. The battery is dead. In the morning, I go to wash my face in the lake. And there, I see a snake. It is so big and black and its head is lifted up and its tongue is sticking out. The men told me that, if you see a snake in that state, it's hunting. I freeze. But the snake does not bother me. It just continues moving and goes away. What gives me strength to push on is thinking about all the fish we're going to catch. I'm in the kitchen with Charlie Bigam. So what have we got here, Charlie? My brand new pan-fried Pad Thai noodles. Noodles? But you're Mr Fish Pie Guy. Guilty. And while ovens are all at roasting, the pan is king of noodling. Whether it's Pad Thai, Yaki Soba or Laxer, finding that perfect texture is a bottomless noodle rabbit hole. But all I have to do is stir it in the pan for six minutes, right? Bingo! Try the new Charlie Bigam's Asian Pan-Fried Noodle Range, handmade in my kitchen. Pan-fried in yours. The next day, the other guys start teasing me about sleeping with the flashlight on. One sec here, one sec here. They just laughed at me. Even I start feeling like I'm being silly. So that night, I decide to go to sleep with the flashlight off. It's about 1 or 2 a.m. when I wake up. I can hear the other men snoring. All of a sudden. I feel something heavy on top of the blanket. I open my eyes and lift my head. But I can't see anything. It's too dark. Now there is some light from the stars outside. But not enough for me to see what is on top of me. So I take out my flashlight and shine it all around the shark. I'm trying not to panic. That's when I see this snake. This large cobra is slithering all over my stomach. I was filled with fear. All the energy drains from my body. I can't even keep my head up. I think, Jaja Uyo. Jaja Uyo. That's Jaja. That's Jaja. I think about waking up one of the men. But what can they do? They believe the snakes are spirits and will probably celebrate. Then I think, what if there are some more snakes outside? I wonder if the flashlight is attracting them to me. I freak out and pull the blanket over my head. The snake slowly slides off my body. I pick out of the blankets. I grab my flashlight and turn it on. I see the snake slithering out of the shark. The snake isn't even looking at me. I can only see the tail as it disappears into the darkness. I spend the rest of the night praying. In the morning, I tell the men, the island spirit, Jaja, visited me last night. One of them laughs and says, Jaja, I'm not going to let you go. You might wake up with a snake coiled under your head like a pillow. That was it for Enoch. First to face with the island spirit was too much. He rode straight back to the mainland where he'd be safe from snakes. But Musambwa never left his mind. On the island, life was simple. When the boats arrive, the other guys help remove the nets and we count the fish for sale. When all this is done, we clean up and lounge around until it was time to fish again. But on the mainland, things were different. I had to hire fishermen who were not always reliable. The fish were scarce and the days felt long. Meanwhile, my brother was threatening to take back his boat. As the days and weeks go by, I'd watch with envy as the fishermen from Musambwa sailed by. The boats heavy with fish. Meanwhile, my pockets were so empty, I couldn't even afford to visit my girlfriend. As I sat there with no fish, my thoughts drifted back to the island. I was so happy that I could see the sea. Musambwa, it didn't look or seem too bad. The island was actually a paradise. Since I was young, I loved birds. Nearly 200,000 birds called the island home. And many of them were species I had never seen anywhere else. Maybe I should go back to Musambwa. After all, paradise is worth a second visit. After many months of struggling to make a living, Enoch decided to go back to Musambwa Island. This time for good. I've been on this island for over 20 years. Every single day, without fail, I've seen a snake. The snakes here, well, they have a mind of their own. They just show up in your house and announce and they hang out for three days for free before leaving. Now, I also own a little cabin on the island, just a small one, about 6 by 7 feet. My house happens to be at a place that snakes love, thanks to all the ducklings that hatch nearby. But now, even if a snake gets close, I'm no longer scared. I no longer reach for my flashlight. When a snake decides to visit at night, I just pull my blanket over my head, tuck it in on both sides so there is no room for a snake to slither in. And then, I just go back to sleep. As you've heard, Enoch has been working hard in Musambwa for over 20 years. Throughout this time, his wife has never set foot on the island. Although he will admit, when his oldest daughter turned 18, only because she was so curious about where he worked, he gave her a very, very, very, very, very brief tour of the island. And she was not allowed to spend the night. Thank you, Enoch, for sharing your story, and thank you, Lulu, for producing this piece. Lulu is a storyteller and researcher living between Uganda and Germany. She's always looking out for new and exciting collaborations. So find her contact in our show notes, the original score. It's by Sandra Lassenundu, who's produced by Lulu Jemima. Now, there are such things in the world as bindings. We bind each other, sometimes the promise, or even a meal. Often, we use a ring, a hand check, or simply a nod. And if we break these bonds, there's a price to be paid. The thing is, we have long known that we can be bonded to forces to entities that dwell in shadow. And breaking these bonds, an exact, extremely dire consequence. If you, or someone you know is linked to forces, they do not understand forcing choices you barely comprehend. I, I really, really, really want to know about it. Please send your story to spookedatsnapjudgment.org because there's nothing better than a spook story from a spooked listener. Spook lies hidden in shadow under a boiling sea of magic and mystery cloaked by KQED in San Francisco. Please don't seek to uncover the passage in, lest the passage in seeks to uncover you. A note to the tech overlords, the skynet, and all associated oligarchs. No SNAP studios content can be used for training, testing, or developing machine learning or AI systems without prior written permission on Teamscouped. The union represented producers, artists, editors, and engineers, and members of the National Association of Broadcast Employees and Technicians, Communication and Workers of America. The AFL-CIO Local 51, and Spook just brought to you by the team that is on very good terms with their ancestors. Except of course from Mark Ristich, I have it on good authority that his ancestors are not pleased. Yes, there's Davy Kim, Zoe Frigno, Eric Yanez, Marissa Dodge, Regina Berriaco, Miles Lassie, Tael DeCotte, Paulina Creekey, Elizabeth Z. Pardue, Aditya Matu, Lulu Jemima, Doug Stewart, Nicholas March, the Spook theme song is by Pat Macitti Miller. My name is from Washington. I don't know if my ancestors are watching me now or not. I have the sense that they are not far. Should I say we have not gone far? Their warnings are our reality. Instead of simply reading 1984, we are living it. Overseers tell us official lies, not so that we believe now. So we learn to cower from the truth. Because the truth insists. The truth is not pretty. The truth makes demands. The truth understands that we have been here before. The truth knows that this is not the first time we've had little girls hiding in eggs while mass agent thugs lurk outside. The truth has seen the murder of our heroes on the street before. I don't wonder if the ancestors know this truth. I wonder if they weep because we prefer lies. Never ever, never ever, never never, never ever, never, never. Turn out the lights. The truth is not pretty. I'm in the kitchen with Charlie Bigham. So what have we got here Charlie? My brand new pan-fried pad Thai noodles. Noodles? But you're Mr Fish Pie Guy. Guilty. And while ovens rule at roasting, the pan is king of noodling. Whether it's pad Thai, yakisoba or laxer, finding that perfect texture is a bottomless noodle rabbit hole. But all I have to do is stir it in the pan for six minutes, right? Bingo! Try the new Charlie Bigham's Asian Pan-Fried Noodle Range, handmade in my kitchen. Pan-fried in yours.